Автор Тема: Richard Mille RM 033 Extra Flat Automatic Red Gold Watch  (Прочитано 6 раз)

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Richard Mille RM 033 Extra Flat Automatic Red Gold Watch
« : 23 Сентября 2022, 04:27:32 »


For the last innovation we want to draw attention to, we'll take a quick look at the RM 012. This is where the architecture and design of Richard Mille watches truly break away from the realm of traditional horological design. The bottom plate has been removed in exchange for the Phyrox tube network. This scaffolding-like structure supports the hand-wound tourbillon movement in what at first glance appears to be a very erratic or subtle way. Each gemstone is set at the junction between multiple tubes.

Koh likens the design to a "Ducati superbike," and we think Mille would agree with that comparison. In fact, the man himself likened it to the suspension in a car that absorbs shocks. The see-through structure may look flimsy, but as the baseplate replacement has been in development for two years, its rigidity is astounding. Likewise, the tolerances for the tube and its fixtures are in microns, and since the moving parts are seamlessly built into it, there is little room for error.

If lightness is a major concern for Mille, it's clear that toughness must be another. Miller, dismissive of sponsored athletes who don their watches at the end of their victories, designed his pieces for action. Whether it's Formula 1, racing or polo, he has always proven that his watches are "made for the battlefield". The fact that their price point makes them completely paradoxical as action watches only enhances their appeal to some extent. It's the pursuit of the extreme for one's own sake, in a way that borders on absurdity, and it's kind of fascinating. In the early days, when people questioned the idea of ​​a solid tourbillon, Miller would have enjoyed taking his wrist off his wrist and throwing it across the room. Certainly a way to prove a point.

In the end, we think it would be an oversight to discuss the basis of branding without highlighting the almost groundbreaking areas in Mille's approach. This field is, of course, women's watches. A few indie brands launched around the millennium, some of which we've covered in depth before. However, none of them seem to put as much attention and creative effort into female models as Richard Miller. The RM 007 was his first model for the female market - released in 2005, the same year as the RM 009. It's also a great example of how Richard Mille pays attention to detail.

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One aspect of this model that Ku really appreciates is the rotors. As he puts it, "There's a bunch of little balls in there that move freely inside the winding rotor. That seems like a cool design element." Not only are these 100 18kt gold micro balls a nice aesthetic touch, they help reduce The burst of energy that a bidirectional rotor might gain during impact. While this technological improvement could have been achieved in other ways, the fact that Mille decided to do it in a way that could be described as feminine suggests that the designs were well thought out. These are not move up or move down designs. Rather, every aspect of practicality, functionality and appearance is considered at every step. This mentality continues in Mille's other men's and women's watches.

Now, we want to take a look at the first communities that formed around these watches. A few years ago, owning a Richard Mille watch was considered a "billionaire's secret handshake," a subtle nod to other high net worth individuals that you were a member of the same club that no one else in the room would recognize. out. However, according to Koh, the secret is now starting to leak. "Because of their recent exposure, they've become more and more well-known. That's why it's getting harder and harder to wear RMs in public, as watch thieves have now learned to be careful with them." As celebrities adopt the pieces, As well as a growing number of champion athletes wearing them on their wrists while competing, these watches are now getting far more exposure than they were in the early days.

When Koh first saw the brand, he immediately thought, "These are just the coolest things I've ever seen. It's like Richard pulled something from my subconscious that I've always wanted but wasn't creative enough to imagine. things." This hits the point that no one has ever imagined something like these watches before. Not only are they creatively different from the rest of the watch market, but they also priced themselves to a new level. This new watch category meant that Richard Mille had no real competition to begin with. It also meant that the industry didn't really understand the concept in the first place.

You could hear a lot of early Richard Milles stories on the grey market in the first few years, but according to Diehl, during that time, Mille was looking for a list of clients that were closer to home. “His previous positions at Mauboussin have linked him, but he has also found a following in his passions outside of watches and racing. In the first few years he will be racing gentlemen and many other competitors as him The best customer." The combination of disposable income and a passion for motorsport meant that other racers immediately understood Miller's message and what he was trying to achieve with the watch. While the calculations might take longer for the more traditional world of watches, these motorsport enthusiasts were on the same page as Mille from the start.

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It's clear from discussions with people who own Richard Mille that they experience some kind of fun when they see another person in the wild. Whether it's going out to dinner or attending a watch meet-and-greet, there always seems to be a friendly exchange over the two barrel crates. Koh has had several such encounters, whether it was being invited to visit the brewery or being served a bottle of sake to his table by Richard Mille lovers at dinner.

What strikes Koh, however, is "I've never had a bad experience with another Richard Mille collector. You just can't do that with other brands. You'll never have someone else with a Patek Philippe, from Across the room shouted, 'Hey, I love your steel 5711. He seems to attract people who are similar to him.'

While production of Richard Mille watches seems to be rising every year, it was still around 4,800 in 2018. Even if you're ready, getting a piece can be a little difficult. If you're looking for a specific piece on the second-hand market, like Ku, it's even harder. "You'll never see the RM 009 listed for sale. The last time I did this was about 10 years ago and it was priced so well that you wouldn't see it today. If I had a time machine..."

This just goes to show how many people who buy these watches view these watches. While they do have a certain wealth of connotations, the sense from the collectors we had a chance to talk to is that they are not commodities to be traded and shared for a small profit. These watches are designed to be worn and loved. If Nadal can win most of his 19 Grand Slams while wearing the RM on his wrist, it's safe to assume it can withstand being worn as an everyday hitter.